Author of Ed Engoron’s Choclatique, Running Press, 2011
I got an email last week from Clyde in Phoenix, Arizona asking me about the secrets of making Dark chocolate ice cream.
This is a question that is often asked. How do I get a deep, dark, rich chocolate ice cream when the main ingredient is milk and cream? Obviously, the milk and cream lighten the mix so that if looks a lot like a light milk chocolate ice cream. So here is the ChefSecret—ultra-alkalized cocoa powder is what the professionals use. For my Dark Chocolate Ice Cream recipe I use Choclatique Black Onyx (ultra-Dutched) Cocoa Powder.
But that’s only half of the ChefSecret. The other half is a healthy helping of dark chocolate ganache. “Ganache” is not a scary concept, although the word may not be immediately familiar to most Americans. It’s a blend of chocolate, creams and syrups that results in a velvety, ultra-smooth paste. In the case of my recipe for Dairy-Free Dark Chocolate Ganache the dark chocolate is blended with light corn syrup, cocoa powder and chocolate extract, and whipped until smooth. With no sacrifice of taste or texture, this dark ganache is the perfect building block for those who are lactose intolerant, those on a vegan diet or those who just love really great dark chocolate ice creams.
But Choclatique Black Onyx is not only for ice cream, but for all your darkest cocoa needs. It is an intensely black, ultra Dutch-processed cocoa powder that has been alkalized to the extreme, resulting in a dark, jet black cocoa powder. It sort of resembles copy machine toner in the intensity of the color, but not in the flavor. When used in baking, it produces an impressive, black-as-coal colored appearance.
Black Onyx has less fat, and a little less flavor. The processing to blacken it takes a lot of the complex flavor notes away and also tends to create a drier finished baked product. So, for baking we strongly recommend using a 50/50 mixture of Black Onyx along Choclatique Red (Rouge) or Natura Cocoa Powders, which will add back a lot of chocolaty flavor. Less processing during the Dutching process preserves a truer chocolate flavor. If you want to use 100% Choclatique Black Onyx in your baked goods, be sure to increase the shortening in the recipe to alleviate the dryness.
Because not all cocoa powders are crated equal, for making the most successful, decadent chocolate desserts and confections I recommend you only use the finest quality, premium cocoa powders.
I’ve posted the recipes Dairy-Free Dark Chocolate Ganache and Dark Chocolate Ganache Ice Cream on the Choclatique website that will give you an outrageous dark chocolate ice cream that everyone will be talking about for years to come. You can also find these recipes in my new book Choclatique, available on our website and in bookstores nationwide after September 27th.